Michigan 3SI Tech/Info Pages
Snake Eyes Via one wire by Alan Sheffield
A lot of you are probably asking yourselves the question, "We needed another way to do Snake Eyes?" No, we probably didn't. But, I read the other options and I just did not like the "Pull the Fuse" option. That just seemed too much like a hack. The standard version is not bad. Unless you have a '91 and then you lose your fog lights (unless you use Jeff VanOrsdal's version). But, I just never felt like slicing into my wiring in that way. 

This version came into existence because of something pointed out to me once. 

If you place the headlight switch about 1/2 way between the parking spot and the headlight spot, you get snakes 8-).  But it would not stay that way.  Eventually it would slip back to full headlights . I figured if I could make this permanent then I'd have a good third option. When Jeff was parting out his RT, I got the headlight switch from him. I stripped the switch down and figured out how it worked. 

When I did this I determined that with a Dremmel tool I could add a fourth notch and I'd have a 4 position switch (off, parking, snakes, on). But I realized that I never use just parking lights. So the question entered my mind, "Can I just change the parking setting to snakes???"

Tools required: Wire cutters, Needle nose pliers (makes it easier to un-plug one of the connectors), Philips screwdriver and a small flat head screwdriver. 
Here's how it all works. If you look at the actual connections to the headlight switch you'll see two colors of connections. The silver ones control the lights while the gold ones control the pop-ups. The silver dot to the top is the ground for the headlights. 

Left 2 gold = lights down
Right 2 gold = lights up

Ground and left silver = parking
Ground and right silver = headlights
All silver = all lights
WIth some testing I determined that I could add a jumper to the wires and make the parking selection trigger the headlight as well. Now I just had to do it. I figured the easiest place to jump the wires would be at the connection to the wiring harness. 
Getting to the connector was the hardest part of this mod. The connector is behind a heat duct below the steering column. I had to remove the collar around the column to get at the screw holding the duct in place (You can see where the screw was in the picture to the right). 

Once I got to the connector I determined that the make-up of the connector on the harness side would be easier to work with. I traced the wires that had to be jumped to the 3rd wire on one side and the second on the other side. 
Unplug the connector to make it easy to move around. 

Using a small screw driver, pry the gray bars off and connect the jumper to the third wire (Red/Yellow) from the right as shown here with my test wire.

The wire does not have to be soldered or spliced.  The gray bar, when replaced, will hold it in place.  
Repeat the process on the other side using the second wire from the left (note the connector has been turned 180 degrees). 

Make sure both wires are secure.

At this point plug the connector back in and test it to see if it works. If it does not, make sure the end of your wire is long enough to touch the metal clip in the connector and try again. 
My finished version.

Now just put everything back together. Make sure to put the heat duct back in place before you reassemble the collar on the steering column or you'll have to take it apart again to put the screw into the duct.

Happy Snake Eyes 8-)